The pattern is my own, I made it up after seeing pictures that my son showed me. I haven’t referred to any other patterns but others will no doubt have done them more skilfully. Pinterest is a good place to look for other free patterns.
- Part 1, which follows on this page, shows how to make the cuff of the mitt.
- Part 2 shows how to complete the main body of the mitt and the zapper.
- You can also download a pdf of an abbreviated tutorial/pattern.
Bright red yarn is very difficult to photograph because it sort of dazzles the camera. The photos have therefore been made slightly less bright so that you can see the stitches better.
What you will need
To make two Iron Man fingerless mittens in a man’s size I used:
- 50g ball Stylecraft Special DK in Matador (bright red) but Lipstick (darker red) would also be good
- 50g ball Stylecraft Special DK in Saffron (yellow)
- Small amount of light turquoise yarn – I used a bit of Stylecraft Special DK Sherbert
- 4mm (UK size) crochet hook
- Darning needle for sorting out the ends
You could use any red and yellow yarn in a DK weight. Whatever you have – making two mitts does not take a whole 50g ball of either colour.
The tutorial and pattern is written using UK terms.
We are going to start by making the ribbed cuff of the first glove.
Make a foundation chain with 22 chains using Matador.
Turn your work.
Make a double crochet (dc) stitch into the second chain from the hook and then into each of the next 19 chains.
You should have made a small strip with 20 dc stitches.
It will be a curly little strip but don’t worry about that.
Make two chains and turn your work.
To make the rib we are going to crochet dc stitches across but in this row and all rows after this, we are going to make the stitches by inserting the hook into the back loops only. This creates the texture of the rib.
Turn your strip of crochet so that you can see the top of the row of dc stitches. You will see two loops. Normally you put the hook under both loops to make the next stitch.
Instead you insert your hook into the back look only. This is hard to show in photos – tutorials are not easy I have discovered!
Make your first dc stitch into the back loop of the second dc of the previous row (not the first).
Carry on with the row, crocheting 20 dc stitches in total into the back loops.
When you get to the final stitch, this is hard to get into the back loop so it is fine just to make it into the end of the row. Make two chains and turn your work.
For the next row, make a dc into the back loop of the second dc in the previous row (not the first).
Carry on with dc stitches into the back loop of each of the dc stitches below and put the final stitch of the row into the turning chain of the previous row.
You should have a turning chain at the beginning of each row and 20 dc stitches. If you don’t count, you can sometimes get a wonky cuff!
Continue until you have done 10 rows. This will give you 5 ribs.
You now need to change to Saffron.
Make your last dc stitch of the row but stop before pulling through the yarn at the end of the stitch.
Introduce a loop of Saffron from your ball of yellow yarn and pull that through instead.
Make your two turning chains using Saffron.
You have changed colour!
You can leave the tail of yarn to weave in later. I usually weave in the ends of the cuff once the cuff is finished, before going on to make the main part of the mitt.
Continue working into the back loop of each dc in the previous row.
Make two chains at the end of each row and turn.
Make sure that you have 20dcs and your turning chains in each row.
Work 14 rows in Saffron (yellow) yarn. This will give you 7 ribs.
You should now have 24 rows in total.
You now need to change colour back to Matador (red).
You do this in exactly the same way as the colour change from red to yellow.
Make the last stitch but do not pull the Saffron (yellow) thread through.
Pull a loop of Matador (red) instead.
Make two turning chains in Matador.
Then turn your work and continue with a dc in the back loop of each dc in the row.
Your piece of cuff should then look like this (right side and wrong side shown).
It will look a bit wobbly and not absolutely square or even.
This is normal!
Carry on in Matador (red) until you have completed 9 red rows.
That will give you 33 rows in total in your cuff.
If you are making for a man with larger hands, you may want to add a couple of rows. If these Iron Man fingerless mitts are for a younger boy or a man with slim wrists, make 31 or even 29 rows.
Its always good to try the cuff round the wrist of the intended wearer at this stage to adjust if necessary.
Once you are happy it is the right width, its time to join your strip up to make the cuff.
Bring the edges together, wrong side to wrong side. Join one end with a slip stitch and then chain 1.
Crochet a dc stitch through both loops of the edge nearest to you and both loops of the edge opposite.
This creates a ridge that blends in with the ribbing.
Turn and then make a row of dc stitches into the top of the cuff. Make one dc stitch into each trough and peak. This is the start of the main body of the mitt.
Change colour when you reach the yellow stripe and then change back to red again when you reach the red section.
This creates an even set of stitches to launch off and make the rest of the mitt.
At the end of your dc row around the cuff you should have the same number of dc stitches as rows in your cuff. That was 34 for me. If you are one or two out, either way, you can increase or decrease in the first row of the cuff 🙂 Its hard to judge because the cuff is a bit wobbly at the edges.
You now need to sew in all the ends to make a neat finish.
Weave in each end into a rib on the wrong side of the cuff, keeping the red ends in a red rib and the yellow ends in a yellow rib.
Try to use a different rib each time so the cuff doesn’t feel lumpy
You can go onto make the rest of the mitt in Part 2, or you can make a second identical cuff for your second mitt first.