Making this realistic looking crochet daisy flower applique is a lot simpler than it first appears. And the pattern is very flexible – you can easily make your daisies any size you want! Each flower consists of a yellow centre with white chain petals and is worked in just two rounds.
Useful links related to the crochet daisy flower applique
You can make the daisy flower to go on any crochet project but these were made for the summer ripple cushion (see the ta-dah! post here).
You can also visit these related links:
- Photo tutorial on adding daisy appliques to the ripple cushion
- Video tutorial on making daisy appliques
- Printable pattern for the ripple cushion (UK terms)
- Printable pattern for the ripple cushion (US terms)
- Photo tutorial on making the summer ripple cushion
- Troubleshooting the crochet ripple pattern – some common problems and how to avoid them
- My Craftsy tutorial showing how to make crochet buttons
You will need
Yarn: Deramores Studio Chunky DK yarn in citrine and frost left over from making the summer ripple cushion cover. Tiny amounts for each flower.
Crochet hook: I used a 3.75mm Clover Soft Touch hook
Darning needle and scissors for the ends and the embroidery
About the daisy flower applique tutorial
This tutorial is written in UK terms. You can also download a printable version of the UK version of the pattern.
Check out the printable US version of the pattern if you want US terms.
Stitches used: chain (ch), treble (tr), slip stitch (sl-st)
Making the daisy flower
I made a centre and daisy petals consisting of 14 chains for my smaller daisy appliques and 18 chains for my large one.
Using the citrine yellow yarn make a slip knot and four chains. Join these with a slip stitch into the first chain to form a circle. Then make two chains.
Work treble stitches into the ring until you have made 12 trebles in total. Cut your working yarn and thread onto the darning needle. You will now close the circle using the neat joining method.
Sew the tail end through the first treble in the ring, putting the needle through both the front and back loops, and sewing from front to back. Pull through the thread but do not tighten completely. Leave a gap of about 1cm.
Bring the needle and yarn back to the front of your work. Then sew through between the front and back loops of the last treble stitch of the ring, again working from front to back. Pull through, tighten and adjust the tension so that the join is as neat as possible.
Round 2 – the petals
Join the white yarn by pulling a loop through one of the stitches of round 1. Make one chain to secure then start making the other 13 chains for your first daisy petal.
When you have 14 chains, insert your hook back into the same stitch and pull the yarn through to create a slip stitch. Then you are ready to make 14 chains for the next daisy petal.
When the second petal is complete, make a slip stitch into the next stitch of round one. Make another 14 chains and join back into the same stitch with a slip stitch. Make the next 14 chains and join into the next stitch of round 1 with a sl-st. Continue all round, making 14 chains and joining into the same stitch and then the next stitch as you make every pair of petals.
When you have made the 14 chains for the last petal, join with a sl-st into the stitch that already holds the first petal.
Your finished daisy will look like this. It is normal for it to look ruffled and rather less than daisy-like. But don’t worry, a bit of steam blocking will sort it out.
Steam blocking the crochet daisy flower applique
To steam block your daisy, pin out onto an old towel folded in half or even four and placed on a hard surface (putting it on a cutting mat saves the desk or table). I use a folded pillowcase on my ironing board, which also works well.
Starting at 12 o’clock, pin the first petal down gently, pulling it slightly taut as you do so. Then do the same thing with the 13th petal around the circle, but pin into the 6 o-clock position. Then do the 7th and 19th petals into the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions. Then pin out the petals in between, spacing them fairly evenly and pulling them to approximately the same length.
You can see how the flower starts to look much more like a daisy.
Then, with a hot steam iron on full steam, hover the iron over the daisy so that the flower gets plenty of steam for a few seconds. Move the iron around, hovering about 3cm above the daisy for up to 30 seconds. Make sure the daisy feels warm to the touch.
CARE – never allow the iron to touch the yarn. This is acrylic and it will MELT. It will ruin the flower and won’t do the iron much good either. I use cheap pins and if the iron does get too low, it touches them first, so I get an early warning. I also use an old iron – not the one I use to do the ironing. That is still pristine (actually through quite a lack of use, but we won’t go there…).
As you can see from this photo, the blocked daisy on the left looks much tidier and daisy like compared to the ‘before’ version.
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